Paris Olympics organizers have hit a snag in their ambitious plan to reduce the carbon footprint of catering at this year’s eco-friendly Games: the hearty appetites of meat-loving athletes.
During a trial run at the Olympic Village restaurant in June, Games chief Tony Estanguet emphasized Paris 2024’s goal to cut average carbon emissions per meal in half compared to previous Olympics by increasing vegetarian options.
Determined not to let down visitors in a country renowned for its cuisine, the organizing committee enlisted several Michelin-starred chefs to advise alongside its food contractor, French multinational Sodexo.
But the first few days in the village, located in a deprived suburb north of Paris, saw demands for more meat, eggs and larger portions as athletes sought to replenish themselves after grueling competitions or gym sessions.
“The only issue would be the food shortages,” swimmer Julio Horrego from Honduras told Agence France-Presse (AFP) on Monday when asked about life in the village. “It’s a bit surprising.”
Horrego, who says he eats up to 5,000 calories per day, said he arrived for breakfast at 10:30 a.m. on Sunday only to find there were no eggs left.
“If you arrive a bit late, then there aren’t enough,” he said at the entrance to the village, which is buzzing with activity and can house 10,500 athletes in its roughly 40 low-rise towers.
Romanian rower Iulian Chelaru gave a clear answer when asked if there was anything missing: “Meat.”
“We didn’t have enough meat, but now it’s solved,” he added.
German swimmer Lucas Matzerath, 24, said that the size of portions was also increasing.
“At the start, there were not very big portions, but it’s improved now,” he said.
The food hall includes six different dining areas offering meals from around the globe, with half of the 50 dishes available each day being 100 percent vegetarian.
“We enjoy our greens, so it’s not a problem,” Canadian beach volleyball player Sophie Bukovec said as she left the complex. “Some of the athletes are big meat-eaters. They’re trying to sort it out. There is protein; you just have to know where to find it.”
On the grill
Sodexo told AFP on Wednesday that it had adjusted its menus.
“Eggs and grilled meat dishes have been in high demand, so volumes have been increased significantly,” a spokesperson for the group said. “For several days now, the quantities offered have been in line with demand.”
The vegetarian-heavy food offering is not the only difference in the Paris village compared with previous editions, leading some critics to brand it “woke.”
The housing complex, which will be converted into apartments after the Games, was built without air conditioning and instead features a renewable underfloor geothermal cooling and heating system.
Some teams, such as the U.S., Great Britain, the Netherlands and France, have opted to install portable coolers for their athletes, but others are managing without, with temperatures on Tuesday and Wednesday exceeding 30 degrees Celsius (95 degrees Fahrenheit) with high humidity.
“I suffer in the hot weather, but up until now, I’ve slept well with just a fan,” said Italian beach volleyball player Marta Menegatti. “AC would be better for recovery, though.”
Cardboard beds
Others have found the innovative Japan-made beds used in the village tricky to adjust to.
Their bases are made from cardboard and the mattresses are from recycled plastic, including fish nets, leading some to joke in the past that they were “anti-sex” and designed to stop athletes from jumping between the sheets.
“My bed is too hard; it’s not the best,” Spanish handball player Lysa Tchaptchet told AFP, with similar sentiments echoed by Polish fencer Martyna Swatowska-Wenglarczyk.
Others were enthusiastic about the efforts made by the Paris 2024 organizing committee to be more sustainable, including by cutting emissions and ensuring all equipment, including the beds, can be recycled or reused afterward.
“I really enjoy it and like what they’ve done in the village,” Danish swimmer Signe Bro told AFP. “It does the job now, but it’s great to know for us athletes how it will be used in the future, and that it has been built in a sustainable way.
“You can laugh about the beds, but it’s good to know you don’t have 10,000 beds left over at the end.”
